“Why Romania?”
I get asked this question a lot, and the answer isn’t a simple one. My curiosity began more than five years ago after reading an article in Condé Nast Traveler. At first, Romania seemed like the perfect fall destination — mysterious, atmospheric, and tied to Dracula legends around Halloween. But once I arrived, I quickly realized vampires are only a tiny part of Romania’s story.
First Impressions of Bucharest: History, Chaos, and Beauty
We flew into Bucharest, Romania’s capital, which was far busier and more intense than I expected. While waiting to check into our apartment, we relaxed at Therme Bucharest, a massive and luxurious spa — the perfect soft landing after a long flight.
Romania was a communist country from 1947 to 1989, and Bucharest still carries traces of that past. Wide boulevards, imposing Soviet-era buildings, graffiti, and stark architecture dominate the cityscape. One standout landmark is the Palace of the Parliament, officially recognized as the heaviest building in the world.
In contrast, Old Town Bucharest feels lively and creative. One highlight was Cărturești Carusel, often voted one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. Traffic, however, was unforgettable — chaotic and aggressive, with cars squeezing into impossible spaces. Thankfully, our fearless driver, John, treated it like a high-stakes game of Tetris.
Exploring Bucharest: Cemeteries, Churches, and Green Spaces
Bucharest surprised us with its depth. We wandered through Bellu Cemetery, which felt oddly vibrant for a graveyard, filled with people visiting loved ones among ornate tombs and Gothic monuments.
Romania is predominantly Eastern Orthodox Christian, and the churches reflected that heritage — richly decorated interiors, floor-to-ceiling icon paintings, and generous use of gold leaf. After a long day of exploring, Cișmigiu Gardens offered a peaceful escape before we headed toward the mountains.
Into the Countryside: Curtea de Argeș and the Carpathians
After navigating endless traffic circles, we left the city behind and drove into the Carpathian Mountains. We stayed in a charming cottage in Curtea de Argeș, easily one of the best Airbnbs we’ve ever experienced. Our hosts welcomed us with wine, fresh bread, and vegetables straight from their garden.
Rural Romania has its own soundtrack — dogs. Everywhere. All breeds and sizes, wandering freely, napping roadside, or greeting visitors. That evening, clouds rolled across the moon as distant howls echoed through the mountains. It was beautiful, eerie, and unforgettable.
Driving the Transfăgărășan Highway
This region is famous for the Transfăgărășan Highway, often called one of the most scenic drives in the world and praised by Top Gear. We spent the day winding through the mountains, stopping for views, local food, and homemade vișinată (cherry liqueur).
While we didn’t spot any bears — likely due to late-season weather — snow had already closed the northern portion of the road due to avalanche risk. Cozy restaurants, roadside stands, fireplaces, and friendly dogs made the journey memorable.
Sibiu: A Medieval City That Watches You Back
Our drive ended in Sibiu, a beautifully preserved medieval town known for its rooftops with eye-shaped windows. No matter where you walk, it feels like the city is watching you. The layered streets, historic buildings, and quiet charm made it one of my favorite stops.
Turda and Cluj-Napoca: Underground Wonders and Missed Legends
Next, we headed north to Turda, home to Salina Turda, a massive underground salt mine transformed into an amusement park. It was surreal being so deep underground, surrounded by echoes, lights, and even a lake with rowboats. Tourist-y? Yes. Still worth it? Absolutely.
The following day brought a challenging hike through Turda Gorge, complete with chains bolted into rock walls and rushing water below. We had planned to visit the infamous Hoia-Baciu Forest near Cluj-Napoca, often called one of the most haunted places in the world, but ultimately skipped it due to logistics. I still kind of regret that decision.
Sighișoara: Dracula’s Real Origins
Instead, we found our spooky fix in Sighișoara, the birthplace of Vlad the Impaler, the historical figure who inspired Dracula. The entire town is a living medieval citadel with colorful houses, cobblestone streets, and a fairy-tale atmosphere.
We climbed towers, wandered dark streets at night, and soaked in the feeling of stepping back in time. Like much of Romania, the food was excellent — and remarkably affordable compared to the U.S.
Brașov and Castle Choices: Skipping Dracula (Almost)
Heading south again, we passed shepherds, rustic structures, and villages seemingly untouched by time. In Brașov, we skipped Bran Castle — often marketed as “Dracula’s Castle” despite having little real connection — and chose Peleș Castle instead. It was elegant, beautiful, and well worth the visit.
Before leaving Transylvania, we hiked Seven Ladders Canyon, a thrilling final adventure.
Bonus Stop: Istanbul Layover Adventure
On the way home, we flew Turkish Airlines, which allowed for a two-day layover in Istanbul. After such a packed Romania road trip, I wasn’t sure I had the energy — but Istanbul completely won me over.
The city is vibrant, endlessly flavorful, and fascinatingly split between Europe and Asia. We stayed in a gorgeous antique-filled accommodation on the European side, in the artistic neighborhood of Beyoglu. From there we also explored the Asian side in Kadıköy, thanks to local friends, and enjoyed incredible food, nightlife, and a traditional Turkish breakfast I still dream about. (Also: I’ve never seen so many people smoking in my life.)
Final Thoughts: Why Romania Is Worth the Trip
Romania exceeded every expectation — from its medieval towns and dramatic landscapes to its warmth, affordability, and deep history. What started as curiosity turned into one of the most memorable trips I’ve ever taken.
And Turkey? That’s a story I’ll definitely be continuing.
